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Canada: The Hidden Costs of Feeding Farmed Fish

In June 2024, the Canadian government announced a ban on a certain type of salmon farming in British Columbia waters. Widely celebrated in the press, the prohibition on so-called “open net-pen” farming represented a “transformative shift” that would “make Canada a world leader in sustainable aquaculture production,” according to a press release from Taleeb Noormohamed, a lawmaker from Vancouver Granville.1

Open-net farms raise salmon in cages submerged in the ocean.2 They allow currents to pass through the nets, delivering oxygen and clearing waste. But these pens are also seen by researchers, food safety experts, and marine advocates as cruel and dangerous. They cause mass die-offs as salmon sometimes choke on their own feces or are crushed by overcrowding. They endanger food and environmental safety by spreading lice and disease from farmed fish to wild fish.

The fishmeal industry diverts millions of tons of food-grade fish from countries with high rates of hunger to sustain aquaculture and livestock farming. The aquaculture farms that yield salmon, tuna, shrimp, carp, and other popular seafood often consume more fish than they produce.West Coast Reduction

The prohibition on these pens “ensures the protection of wild species, food security and the vital economic development of British Columbia’s First Nations,” said Diane Lebouthillier, former minister of fisheries, oceans, and the Canadian Coast Guard.3 When the ban takes effect in 2029, much of the salmon industry in Canada is expected to shift to either a marine “closed-containment” approach, which keeps salmon in floating cages separated from the ocean by an impermeable barrier, or a land-based “closed-containment” approach, which entails raising the fish onshore in tanks or ponds.4

The problem was that Canada’s celebrated ban overlooked a far bigger global concern tied to farmed salmon. Regardless of how the fish is housed, aquaculture salmon is almost always raised using fishmeal, which is a dark-yellow, protein-rich powder made by cooking and pulverizing wild-caught fish.5 And this type of feed comes with a variety of hidden costs for the world’s oceans.

A major cost of fishmeal is its impact on food security in lower-income countries where it is caught and processed—including in Africa, Latin America, and Southeast Asia—robbing their coastal communities of livelihoods and affordable protein sources. Despite the fishmeal industry’s claims about the benefits of aquaculture, “On net, it is very clear that the industry destroys food. It’s not feeding the world, but actually destroying people,” said Spencer Roberts, one of the authors of a study published in 2024 in Science Advances.6 Worse still, he added, it is taking food from Global South countries and converting it into something else that gets fed to Global North countries.7 A third of the world’s stocks were overfished as of 2024.8

Global demand for fishmeal skyrocketed, especially since the early 2000s, primarily because it is used as a protein-rich supplement in the booming industry of fish farming, or aquaculture, which is the planet’s fastest-growing food sector.9 Over half of the seafood eaten worldwide comes from fish farms, most of them powered by fishmeal and fish oil.10 Producers of fishmeal and fish oil are sometimes referred to as the “reduction industry,” a $6 billion sector that catches wild fish, like menhaden, anchovies, krill, and sardines, and then “reduces” them to powder, pellets, or oil, mostly fed to higher-priced fish in captivity bound for seafood buyers.11 The practice of catching food to feed food is highly wasteful in terms of the energy loss and use of the planet’s resources, said Karen Luyckx, an independent researcher who specializes in food systems. “If we want to feed a growing global population well and sustainably, we must stop catching wild fish to feed farmed fish.”12

Much of the fishmeal used by Canadian fish farms was sourced from abroad. Canada imported more than 55,000 tons of fishmeal in 2024.37 Canada also produces some of its own fishmeal.M As of 2025, at least seven plants in Canada were processing fishmeal and its liquid equivalent, fish oil. Four of these plants were located on the Atlantic coast, two on the Pacific coast, and one on the Hudson Bay. Two of the plants, both on the Atlantic coast, exported fish oil.M

Canadian plants processing fishmeal have been implicated in a variety of problems. Between 2021 and 2024, at least two Canadian fishmeal plants were reportedly tied to crimes or concerns relating to pollution or unsustainable fishing practices, according to news reports, government documents, trade records, and court filings compiled in Bait to Plate, a tool created by The Outlaw Ocean Project that tracks the world’s fishing and seafood industries.38M This included one plant at the center of pollution complaints, including allegations of emitting a smell that local news coverage described as being “rancid, fishy, bloody, sour, and chemical.”39M Another plant was reported to process fish species described by Fisheries and Oceans Canada as being in the “critical zone,” a state of heavy depletion.40M

The conservation status of fish used by the fishmeal industry in Canada.
Status
Species Used for Fishmeal
Sourcing
  1. Pacific anchoveta (Engraulis mordax)
    Source
  2. Sardines (Sardinops sagax)
    Source
  3. Atlantic herring (Clupea harengus)
    Source
  4. Pacific herring (Clupea pallasii)
    Source
  5. Haddock (Melanogrammus aeglefinus)
    Source
  6. Pollock (Pollachius virens)
    Source
At risk of overfishing
Overfished, overexploited, collapsed, or at a critical level

The stench from the plants is more than just a nuisance for people living nearby. It corrodes the local economy by undercutting tourism and scaring away restaurant patrons and beach visitors. The foul smell is also an indicator of the release of noxious chemicals like ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, cyanide, and methane, which have been known to contribute to higher levels of serious health problems, including nausea, pulmonary edema, and even death among plant workers and neighbors.41 The worst part of the odor comes from trimethylamine, or TMA, a colorless gas characterized by a “fishy” smell. In 2021, the Society of Chemical Industry identified TMA as “strongly toxic and carcinogenic.”42 More than 31,000 people, over 5,300 of them under the age of 15, live within a mile of fishmeal plants in Canada, according to The Outlaw Ocean Project’s Bait-to-Plate tool.43M

Fishers sweep piles of Pacific herring across a boat deck in the Strait of Georgia in 2019. Global demand for fishmeal, a key ingredient in aquaculture feed, has put additional pressure on forage fish like herring, which are processed in Canadian plants.Conservancy Hornby Island and Sea Shepherd

People living near some of Canada’s plants have complained about this stench. One resident described the “eye-watering stench” from the West Coast Reduction fishmeal plant in North Vancouver in a February 2021 post on a neighborhood blog.44M That May, officials from the plant announced that they were renewing their air quality permit and requesting an increase in their allowed emissions.45 Many locals were displeased and collected over 750 signatures on a petition aiming to block the plant permit renewal.46M

The residents were not wrong to raise concerns about air quality around the factory. Nitrogen oxides accounted for over half of the gases released by the plant, 24 tons being emitted in 2023, according to a report by Canada’s national pollutant release inventory tied to the West Coast Reduction plant in North Vancouver.47M These gases can have “adverse effects on respiratory systems of humans and animals” and cause damage to vegetation, while contributing to the acidification of aquatic ecosystems, a 2013 article by Environment and Climate Change Canada said.48 West Coast Reduction did not respond to requests for comment.49

Canada prohibits boats targeting fish for the sole purpose of making fishmeal.71 Therefore, the fishmeal produced in Canada is typically made by processing inedible parts of fish that would otherwise be thrown away. Fishmeal in Canada comes from Pacific anchoveta, chub mackerel, herring, haddock, pollock, sardines, and frigate tuna.72M

Herring fishing boats ply the waters off the coast of British Columbia, in March 2019. The region is home to one of the few remaining industrial herring fisheries on the Pacific coast of North America.
Herring fishing boats ply the waters off the coast of British Columbia, in March 2019. The region is home to one of the few remaining industrial herring fisheries on the Pacific coast of North America.Pacific Wild

Canadian fishing companies have historically benefited from government support. Canada gave at least $800 million in harmful subsidies to its fishing industry in 2018, according to a study by the University of British Columbia.73 Fishing subsidies are controversial because many researchers say that they can put too many fishing ships on the water, which accelerates overfishing. Governments around the world took one step toward ending this practice when an agreement on fisheries subsidies passed by the World Trade Organization (WTO), of which Canada is a member, entered into force in 2025. Under this agreement, member states agreed to prohibit subsidies that contributed to unregulated or illegal fishing and the targeting of overfished stocks.74

The health of Canada’s fisheries and the burden of overfishing are ongoing concerns. Between 2020 and 2025, conservationists, environmental groups, and coastal First Nations called for an indefinite moratorium on herring fisheries in British Columbia.75 They said the harvest rates set by the Fisheries and Oceans Department were unsustainable and blamed the federal agency for systematically mismanaging stocks, causing the fish’s decline.76

Herring is processed by line workers and through sorting machines. A moratorium on herring fishing in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, along the Canadian east coast, was extended in 2022 in an effort to bolster the herring stock. Fishmeal produced in Canada only comes from offcuts at factories like this one.CBC/Radio Canada

Other stakeholders have also fought over how these stocks are managed. In 2025, in a joint declaration, six hereditary chiefs called for a 20-year moratorium on herring fishing in the Strait of Georgia, pointing to a 60 percent decline in local populations between 2016 and 2020.77 Three months later, Canadian fishery authorities increased the Pacific herring quota in the Strait of Georgia to almost 11,000 tons.78 The British Columbia Seafood Alliance endorsed this decision.79

Canadian authorities closed the Atlantic mackerel fishery in 2022.80 The species was “in the critical zone,” Canadian fishery authorities said in a news release.81 Oceana Canada said that the decision followed a decade of mismanagement in which the government set the fishing quota at 10 times the scientific advice.82 In 2024, FFAW-Unifor, a fishers’ labor union, called for an extension of the mackerel bait fishery in Newfoundland and Labrador, pointing to evidence that stocks were healthier in these areas.83M

On March 19, 2021, a fishing vessel illegally dumped a load of herring in Deep Bay off the coast of British Columbia after a carrier vessel refused the catch because the fish were too small and much of the catch consisted of juveniles.84 The discarded fish carpeted the seafloor by the dock and prompted an investigation by Canada’s fisheries department.85 A veteran herring fisherman dismissed the incident, telling a local paper that this practice was a normal part of cleaning and unloading.86 But conservationists said this practice of dumping unmarketable fish was “wasteful and unsustainable,” and called for the herring fishery to be shut down entirely.87M

In Canada, herring is a traditional source of bait for many commercial fisheries, including lobster, snow crab, and halibut. Fishing companies also harvest herring roe, exporting it—usually in smoked, marinated, pickled, cured, canned, fresh, or frozen form—to Japan, the United States, the Dominican Republic, and elsewhere.88 The health of this fish stock in the waters bordering Canada has struggled. Many Pacific and several Atlantic herring fisheries were closed in 2022 in Canada due to low stock numbers.89 In the Bay of Fundy and on the Scotian Shelf, the total allowable catch of Atlantic herring was reduced by 33 percent in 2022.90 That year, Oceana Canada urged the Canadian government to update the country’s Fisheries Act and expand its regulations for the sake of helping to restore depleted stocks of the types of fish targeted by fishmeal boats.91 The organization argued that these species played a crucial role in maintaining a healthy marine ecosystem.92

In 2021, a carrier vessel in Deep Bay off Canada’s west coast rejected a load of herring because it contained too many juveniles. The fishing vessel, in turn, dumped the dead fish into the sea. Critics of the fishing and fishmeal industry point to the case as an example of the industry’s wasteful and illegal practices.Hornby Island Conservancy/CBC News

In 2023, the Canadian government concluded that half of the herring populations across Canada’s Atlantic and Pacific coasts were in “cautious” or “critical” zones of health, with pollock off the coast of Nova Scotia also listed as “cautious.”115 Canadian fishery officials explained that they applied the designations to these species because they were being caught at an unsustainable rate and needed protection to bolster their chances for a rebound.116 In 2025, the herring moratorium was extended another two years in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.117

Canada produced more than 800,000 tons of seafood in 2022, of which at least 160,000 tons were grown on farms via aquaculture rather than caught at sea.118 More than 65 percent of the seafood produced by Canada’s fish farms was exported, mainly to the US, Japan, and the European Union.119 Atlantic salmon was the country’s most valuable aquaculture product.120

Years of organizing by marine conservationists and aquaculture critics resulted in British Columbia’s ban on open-net pen salmon farming in 2024.121 But as North America doubles down on strict regulations of aquaculture, seafood companies and consumers will likely shop for salmon in the less regulated marketplace, according to the 2023 book, Where Shrimp Eat Better Than People. “These richer countries will increasingly externalize the ecological costs of these production processes to Asian countries where there are weak monitoring and enforcement capabilities.”122 As difficult as it is to track conditions at a fish farm halfway around the world, it will be even harder to account for where those salmon get their feed.